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Choosing the right DSLR for your Nature Photography
It 'true that no matter what material you use - this is what you do with the camera that counts. However, there is no doubt that when you're hiking through a dense jungle in the middle of Central America, you want to travel light. Even though the Nikon D2x has the prestige of being the premier Nikon "pro" camera, you can find the best solution for your work of nature.
One of the first things you must consider is how you plan to use the photos. Look for magazines that you want to publish your work. Send in the guidelines "submission" and know their mega pixel minimum. The same goes for stock agencies - to navigate the site and decide which position you want to sell in the end your work. Many organizations have guideliens presentation published on their websites. Nature Photography If you're interested in learning more and do for your own enjoyment, then by all means buy the cheaper models. There's nothing wrong with a camera that snaps a photo of 5 or 6 megapixels. You will still be able to blow up to poster size, if you want a special print made.
Choose the right lenses
Unfortunately, nobody knows what to buy or objectives of "How to build the ideal system for SLR photography nature." Once again, it depends on the type of images you want to take your personal preferences and markets where you want to sell your image.
The big advantage of the Nikon cameras is that you can use the lenses on your body. This allows much more freedom of choice means that you can get really slow most surprising surprisingly affordable.
I will give you an example. One of my favorite target is a manual focus lens 300mm F4 first since 1970. Nikon especially developed ED (Extra-low Dispersion) glass to provide color correction optical pricise. This special glass (not available in all lenses Nikon) provides for the resolution, crisp and clear requirements for a large image. The other advantage (at least for me since usually on foot to find the wildlife) is that it weighs less and packs.
Another example - the 50mm 1.4 autofocus). This is actually a 80 millimeters on your body. This means that you have a goal of 80 millimeters, which can take pictures in dark environments. And because the lenses Nikon has improved its 50mm lens from its inception as a company (Nikon used to include a 50 mm in all its organs, even in late 1980), is one of the best lenses Nikon. It is cheap, because 50 millimeters on a 35mm camera is a kind of pooey. But on a Digial 80 millimeters camera is wonderful.
Magnification - use this to your advantage
For photographers of wildlife, in particular, an advantage of shooting with a Nikon digital camera these days is the magnification factor. Rather than creating a sensor the same size as an image of 35mm film, Nikon and many other digital SLR manufacturers decided to create a sensor that is smaller than the standard 24×36mm frame models of old movies. Have a smaller sensor means that you have no intention of entering all the information on the left and right and top and bottom of the frame. This may sound really bad … but there is no need to worry about what you have not because the camera was adjusted so that what you see is what is optically recorded in a digital file.
The result is that the car multiplies the magnification of all lenses. Magnification of Nikon (depending on the device used) is about 1.5. This means that a target of 300 mm to 450 mm is magnified. This is great news for photographers and wildlife. The only drawback is that the range-wide angle lens (like a wide angle of 17 millimeters, 25.5 millimeters becomes not-as-wide-angle. However, the landscape photographers still options. I'll get to those in a small.
Objectives - Advantages and disadvantages
If I can not tell you the right to buy lenses for your needs particualr … I can give you some comments / impressions about the particular lens I use or have used in the past.
F2.8 Fisheye Nikkor 10.5 millimeters: I never thought about a specialized lens that can provide me use both. For more information, I wrote a short article on how to use a fisheye lens in your nature photography athttp: / / www.naturestocklibrary.com/gallery/2472892
Nikkor 18-70mm f/3.5-4.5G ED-IF AF-S DX Zoom - The goal is right. The goal of the kit I bought a long time ago and is used for a wider range. I wish I had purchased and registered as a 2.8, which offers a wider range (like a 12mm to 25mm).
Tamron 17-35mm f2.8: This is a great lens, but alas, I bought a camera and expansion on my digital body means that it is very useful in my picture now. I'm going to sell (with my other wide angle) and the purchase of a 2.8, which has a broader scope so that I can do more with photography and landscape.
AF Nikkor 50mm f/1.4D - E 'the same lens I have already spoken. E 'small, has a low price, you can turn in really dark situations and is a 80 millimeters on a digital camera. Really can not go wrong.
Nikon Nikkor 80-200mm ED AF Zoom f2.8D - This is a fantastic lens that remains at 2.8, regardless of whether you're shooting 80 or 200mm. Again, magnification means that it is actually a 300 mm zoom. Zoom are great because you can adjust the focal length depending on where the subject is. Subjects not so great, that are still far (as macaws see here), but pretty impressive for wildlife such as deer docile. It also has a macro function that works perfectly.
Nikkor 105mm f/2.8D AF Micro, Micro or 105 for short - is probably the most used Nikon macro lens, probably because the target can serve triple duty. First, it is a macro lens photography and allows you to take pictures at a reproduction ratio of 1:1 (of a body by 35 millimeters), which means that 24 to 36 millimeters subject fill the entire image. Then he makes a very good lens to a common purpose short telephoto. Thirdly, it is also, at least one picture, very reasonable goal (even if, with a magnification may be too much of a telephoto lens on a DSLR). I really like this target for macro photography.
Nikkor 300mm F4 manual focus - While a "prize" of the lens does not offer the flexibility of a zoom … is always a great choice for the best results in your work. This is the very objective, I have discussed above, and considering that only costs $ 350, is the light and the focus is so easy, is one of my favorite targets. I never leave home without it.
Nikkor 600 millimeters f5.6 Manual focus ED glass - Once again, I paid much less for this purpose (which is actually a giant of 900 millimeters on a digital body and also the famous Nikon ED glass!) Because E 'an old model and it is manual focus. I spent $ 1,599 USD - but I think that a newer model would go for $ 5,000 and $ 25,000, depending on the f-stop. Some might say that 5.6 is a bit 'too close to an F stop, but I find that the compression means with telephoto lenses that I would shoot a wider issue of 900 mm, with anything from 5.6 (2, 8 would focus too low to subject such a Far Away). Although … for those closer to 2.8 is magic!
In the past, I also tried the Sigma 70-300mm f/3.5-5.6 and Tamron 200-400mm f/3.5-5.6 and both have served well as maximize affordable, while I was learning photography. Since I sold to pay for the lenses that I use now.
Why I Highly Recommend Love and manual focus
I used to be terrified by the manual focus. Auto focus on slower, the ring of fire is small and difficult to use … there's something really simple idea to just leave the camera to work, with particular attention to you. I was afraid of not reacting fast enough for moving subjects and would not be as good as the autofocus of my camera. Now I see the error of my ways.
People Wildlife (s) you want to make sure that the main subject eyes are fully developed. It will not be able to sell any image, if the eyes are not developed. If you pull a variance under 10 meters of 2.8 AF and use, the device selects the subject closest to the camera (usually the nose, cheeks, forehead, eyes or not … the eye itself). Aperture of 2.8 means that you have such a sweet depth of field that appears in the eyes blurred. The lenses focus the great (and cheaper), cycles of manual emphasizing the most beautiful you've ever seen. I find it much easier to use manual focus on my 300mm F4 lens in 1970 that my last autofocus 80-200mm zoom (using auto-focus function). Unfortuately, I found the ring, focusing on newer models, a bit pooey '… but I wanted to make the case because I think that the lens manual focus since 1970, are the greatest things since sliced bread!
Rule of thumb for those quick
You may already be aware of the fact that the shutter speed must be at least equal to the distance of your goal. For example, you need to shoot at least 1/300th of a second if you use a lens of 300 mm or shake hands with your picture will look really blurry. And even large collection of 300 mm shall be placed on a tripod (preferably with a ball for the work of wildlife). Magnification, might be able to get away with shooting a 300 mm (450 mm on digital) hand-held … A 1/450th of a second or more …) corner … But investing in a good tripod head Ball really improve results, if your goal is greater than 300 millimeters.
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